Here are ten of the most powerful medicinal garden plants you can find in your wild Californian backyard. 

Easy to gather and forage, and a much cheaper alternative to buying the same medicinal herb in bottle or powder form, Milk Thistle, Yarrow, California Sagebrush, Yellow Mustard, Fennel, Dandelion, Chamomile, Miner’s Lettuce, Queen Anne’s Lace, and Wild Strawberries are among the holy grails of medicinal garden plants.

Available nearly everywhere you can hike or set foot in California, these precious plants pack a punch when it comes to holistic healing. These florae feature diverse healing powers, and each one can be used for cures, tinctures, teas, poultices, or even bath soaks. 

10 Amazing Medicinal Garden Plants

1. Milk Thistle

Milk thistle is one of my favorite medicinal plants to forage for use in tinctures and tonics. This prickly, thorned plant with purple flowers is one of the most underrated yet powerful medicinal garden plants known for its excellent ability to heal the liver.

We often overlook it or even avoid it when we see its sharp spikes and formidable spines, yet milk thistle is a medicinal powerhouse and is worth adding to your repertoire of medicinal garden plants.

Healing Properties of Milk Thistle

Milk thistle is well known as a powerful liver purifier and detoxifier and is readily available during the spring and summer in Northern California, covering the hillsides with prickly purple flowers. You are more likely to see it in Southern California from spring through early summer. The benefits of milk thistle are numerous, but the secret lies in its seeds.

The seeds contain silymarin, which is a potent liver detoxifier. Each flower on a milk thistle plant contains around 200 seeds, with one plant carrying over 6,000 on average! In addition, milk thistle has anti-inflammatory benefits, which can help with asthma, rheumatoid arthritis, and even cancer.

How to Create a Milk Thistle Tincture

An easy tincture can be made using a ratio of five parts seeds, one part water, and one part 80-100 proof alcohol.

Here’s a recipe I use to make milk thistle tonic:

Place the pappus (the fluffy dried flower part of the plant) in a mason jar, and cover it with the above liquids. Shake the jar once a day and leave it to sit in a cupboard for 3-5 weeks. When it’s ready, strain the mixture well with cheesecloth or similar and take 1-3 teaspoons daily as a liver cleanse.*

Fun fact: Milk thistle is the national plant of the United Kingdom, but they call it Scotch thistle. Next time you visit the UK, check out their paper money, coins, and postcards to see the image of a thistle stamped all over them!

Here are some of our favorite herbs to grow in our backyard garden.

2. Yarrow

Yarrow is another common flower found in California that contains numerous medicinal qualities. Some of its benefits include the ability to stop bleeding, relieve cramps, reduce fever, and decrease inflammation in the body.

Yarrow is a weedy-looking plant with clusters of tiny white flowers and is easy to forage for and collect. Yarrow is easy to harvest and simple to grow in your medicinal plant garden.

Medicinal Uses of Yarrow

Yarrow contains its own natural antiseptic and is therefore a trusty plant to have on hand. It also has antibacterial properties as well as diuretic, and one can find relief for hemorrhoids and even varicose veins in this pretty little plant.

It is legendary for treating colds and can be made into a poultice for deep cuts and wounds and even connect tissue back together after separating from a cut.

Chew on a bit of yarrow for a toothache or drink some as a tonic daily if you easily bruise. The benefits of yarrow are nearly endless.

Creating a Tonic and Poultice Using Yarrow

For a simple yarrow tonic, dry the flower by hanging it upside down for a few days away from the sun or moisture. Use a 1:1 ratio of plant matter to liquid (water, alcohol, or a mix of both) and leave in a cupboard for 3-5 weeks to soak.

If the mixture doesn’t seem strong enough when it’s ready, throw in a handful of dried yarrow to liven it up. You can add honey to the mixture for added benefits. Take 1-3 teaspoons a day for holistic healing.

You can also create a quick and effective poultice with fresh yarrow. Simply crush, grind, or chop the leaves, add enough water to make a paste, and smear the paste evenly over the wound.

You can hold it in place with a muslin cloth or place a bandaid over it to keep it secure. Leave it on for 15-30 minutes or longer to soak up all the medicinal benefits of this wondrous wild plant.

Did you know? In folklore, yarrow is often called Soldier’s Woundwort, Bloodwort, and Devil’s plaything, and historically was used by soldiers on the battlefield to stop minor wounds from bleeding.

3. California Sagebrush (Wild Sage)

One of my personal favorites in my medicinal garden is California sagebrush. I like to call it wild sage since it is distinctly different from the sage one often used in cooking.

Wild California sagebrush has long, feathery soft shoots with a spicy, herbaceous smell. When I’m out hiking, I will often grab a small handful of sage, crush it together in my palms and rub it all over my body, almost like perfume. The smell is intoxicating, as well are the healing properties.

Medicinal Uses of Sage

Sagebrush has been used for hundreds of years for its valuable medicinal qualities. Native Americans treasured it as a natural remedy for colds, to heal skin lesions, and to treat hemorrhoids. Notably, they also made it into a tea to help reduce the symptoms of a fever.

It has also been known to help treat rheumatism, asthma, and ease symptoms of menopause and childbirth. As a natural antiseptic, antimicrobial, and antibacterial plant, sagebrush has many practical uses and is superbly multifunctional. It’s another perfect addition to grow in your medicinal plant garden or forage in the hills of California.

How to Make a Sagebrush Herbal Bath Soak

The smell of sagebrush is one of my favorite smells in the wild. It has a spicy, herbal, and almost lemon-like quality and is intoxicating to inhale. I make an herbal bath soak with dried (or fresh!) wild sage and it’s absolutely lovely. Here’s the recipe:

Sagebrush Herbal Bath Soak

1/2 cup pure Epsom salts

1/4 -1/3 cup Himalayan pink salt

Scant 1/4 cup organic apple cider vinegar with the mother culture

1 tablespoon bentonite clay

1/4 cup fresh or dried wild sagebrush, chopped or blended

Draw a hot bath and pour the ingredients under the faucet so they mix well under the water. Enjoy!

Fun fact: This spicy, herbaceous plant is actually not a true sage, but hails from the Sunflower family!

4. Yellow Mustard (Wild Cabbage)

Yellow mustard is next up to bat, and I like this wild medicinal plant because it is simple to forage, grows and thrives pretty much anywhere, and can be eaten raw and added to salads and sautees, which makes it a hardy addition to a garden.

I would consider it the underdog of medicinal garden plants; its cheerful yellow flowers pop up from hills, trails, and even the side of the freeway, yet much of the time it goes unnoticed and is content to stay in the background while other plants take the spotlight. But just like underdogs, you’ll find that yellow mustard has more to it than meets the eye.

Yellow mustard, or wild cabbage, as it is sometimes called, is actually an invasive species of the brassica (mustard) family. It has a slight horseradish taste and can be added to a myriad of dishes, made into a spicy mustard, eaten raw or cooked, or steamed or sauteed with garlic for a tasty side dish.

Essentially all parts of a yellow mustard plant are edible, contain vitamins and antioxidants, and are nutrient dense like many in the cabbage family.

Foraging for wild yellow mustard is a simple way to add copious amounts of nutrition to your plate – for free!* This little gem is also an excellent plant if you want to attract more bees to your medicinal garden!

To add nutrient-dense greens to your diet, chop up the leaves of yellow mustard and throw it in a pan with garlic for a tasty sautee. You can also dry the flower heads in a dehydrator or by hanging them upside down, and grind them into a powder when they’re fully dried to make mustard or sprinkle them over dishes for a feisty, horseradish-like kick!

Fun fact: The earliest recorded collection of yellow mustard in America was in Boston, Massachusetts, in 1873. It was found in a ship’s ballast that came from England. Yellow mustard often goes by the nickname “Bastard Cabbage” because of its invasive nature, but some of its more polite names include “Wild Turnip,” “Turnip Weed,” or “Wild Cabbage.”

5. Wild Fennel

Fennel is another valuable medicinal plant. Known for its mild, sweet licorice taste and smell, fennel grows naturally in California and can commonly be seen sprouting alongside mountain trails near the ocean.

Both the seeds and bulb of this plant are highly nutritious, containing considerable amounts of Vitamin C, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Potassium, and Manganese.

Meidcinal Uses of Fennel

In addition, fennel seeds contain anethole, which is an active cancer-fighting compound. Fennel also has antibacterial properties and may reduce inflammation. It can help tremendously with calming gastrointestinal distress and stomach aches and has proven effective for conditions like Irritable Bowel Syndrome.

Fennel is pretty versatile and can be eaten raw or cooked, but not everyone enjoys the taste of black licorice. Personally, I am one of those people. Sometimes if I’m in a pinch and have a stomach ache, gas, cramps, or bloating, I’ll chew on a few fennels seeds to ease nausea.

However, I do enjoy the seeds in my tea, and find that drinking fennel tea also calms my stomach and helps with my digestion. I prefer the sweeter, milder flavor of the seeds mixed with honey and hot water.

Here’s a simple fennel tea recipe I like to keep on hand.*

How to make a Fennel Tea

Fennel and Orange Peel Tea

1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed or whole, wild foraged and harvested

A few slices of orange peel, fresh or dried

1 teaspoon raw honey

1/8th teaspoon turmeric

Place the fennel seeds and orange peel in a reusable tea sack. Boil water and pour over the sack, adding the turmeric and stirring. When the water has cooled a little, stir in the honey. Raw honey loses much of its nutritional benefits if heated, so I wait a few minutes for my tea to cool down before adding it.

6. Dandelion

Dandelion is a little yellow-flowered weed that is common in California. The botanical name for dandelion is Taraxime officinale – interestingly, the word, “taraxime” comes from the Greek word, “taraxos,” which means both “disorder” and “healing.” The power dandelion holds is even in its name.

Medicinal Uses of Dandelion

Dandelion is similar to Milk Thistle in that it helps rebuild and cleanse the liver. It has been used traditionally since the 10th century for a host of ailments, including toxicity with the blood, urinary tract dysfunction, lymphatic system problems, and kidney issues.

It is also well known for its efficacy as a diuretic, laxative, stomachic, anti-carcinogenic, and anti-inflammatory herb. This precious little plant contains a host of health benefits. 

A simple tea can be made from fresh or dried dandelion, using all its parts, including the root. 

Easy Dandelion Tea

Find a selection of wild dandelions, away from lawns, roads, or anywhere that may have been sprayed with pesticides. Pull up the whole plant from the ground, including the root.

Boil the roots for 15-20 minutes. Chop the flower, leaves, and stem, add the roots, and steep for 10 minutes, covered. Add raw honey to taste. 

You can also lightly and quickly roast dandelion for a stronger, more bitter, and coffee-like taste.  

Fun fact: Every part of a dandelion is 100% edible and a cup of raw dandelion contains 112% of the daily requirement for vitamin A! 

7. Chamomile

Chamomile is a personal favorite of mine – a perfect little flower with bright, innocent white and yellow flowers covering meadows in the spring.

Chamomile was considered one of the most sacred and important herbs to Native Americans. Chamomile has been used in ancient traditional medicine for over 5,000 years and is a versatile plant with high levels of antioxidants.

This little sweetheart is full of holistic nutrients and has is known to help with inflammatory conditions, insomnia, skin and gastrointestinal disorders, arthritis and rheumatoid pain, and more.

Chamomile is one of my favorite flowers to pick out in the wild and make a pretty bouquet with. I also press this flower to use on cards and bookmarks! Chamomile is both a cheerful and helpful plant to add to a medicinal garden. 

I love this Foraged Tea recipe from winecountrytable.com that’s a beautiful way to use chamomile. I think you will, too! 

Fun fact: Chamomile is one of the herbs most written about and documented in ancient medical writings and was a useful medicinal herb in ancient Rome, Greece, and Egypt. 

8. Miner’s Lettuce

Miner’s Lettuce, also known as Winter Purslane, is a humble plant that often gets overlooked (or stepped on) when it comes to medicinal wild flora. Miners lettuce looks like a mix between a weed and a salad leaf, boasting a single cauline leaf garnished with small white or pink flowers in the center.

It grows wild and free among the grass in California, has a mild flavor, and is often paired with spinach or used for garnishes in a salad.

Medicinal Uses of Miner’s Lettuce

The entire plant, including stem, leaf and blossom, contains high amounts of Vitamin C, calcium, and even protein, and is used as an effective diuretic, poultice for inflamed or rheumatic joints, or as a mild laxative when taken as a tonic.

It can be found in shady coastal spots, forests, and sometimes wetlands. Toss a bit of miner’s lettuce into a mixed green salad to add an understated flair at your next garden party!

I love this recipe from adamantkitchen.com for a pretty winter salad, or you can switch it up and use strawberries and blueberries in the summer!

Fun Fact: Many early North American settlers ate this humble plant as a food staple in the 1800s. During the California Gold Rush, it was used to treat scurvy, hence giving it the name Miner’s Lettuce. 

9. Queen Anne’s Lace

Queen Anne’s Lace is a delicate white flora that boasts thousands of tiny white umbels of flowers and blossoms in the spring and summer. This plant actually belongs to the carrot family and is also commonly called Wild Carrot.

Queen Anne’s Lace was highly prized and cultivated by early Europeans and is still found today in both Europe and America. The leaves can be applied to sores or ulcers in a poultice and can be used as a mild diuretic. The flower is sweet when eaten, and it can be soaked in water or alcohol and used as a perfume for aromatic purposes.

Herbal Decoction Using Queen Anne’s Lace

This beautiful plant stimulates the kidneys and reduces inflammation. It can be made into a simple herbal infusion, using one cup of Queen Anne’s Lace to four cups of boiled water. I love learning about herbal decoctions from The Herbal Academy here; they are a wealth of knowledge. 

Did you know? Legend has it that Queen Anne’s lace earned its name when Queen Anne of England pricked her finger while sewing lace, drawing a single drop of blood.   

10. Wild Strawberries

Wild strawberries grow freely where I live in the Pacific Northwest. In the summer, hidden under friendly green foliage and usually rooted in soft, sandy soil, one can find clusters of tiny vivid red strawberries that burst with candy-like flavor. The are most often found in California along the coast, in the coastal ranges, and in the Sierras.

Not only just a joyful treat to stumble upon in the mountains, wild strawberries have many medicinal uses and therapeutic benefits. The leaves contain vitamin C, flavanoids, tannins, and phenolic acid. The berries are useful as a remedy for arthritis, inflammation, gout, and kidney disease.

Combined with other medicinal herbs, the berries and leaves create a blood-purifying tea. Next time you’re lucky enough to happen upon a family of wild strawberries hiding out in the woods, be sure to collect the leaves and roots as well as the berries or take a bit to plant a patch in your medicinal plant garden.  

Wild Strawberry Leaf Tea for Sore Throats, Gum Inflammation, and Canker Sores*

Take one teaspoon of dried wild strawberry leaves or 2-3 teaspoons of fresh leaves, cover with eight ounces of boiled water, and steep, covered, for 10-15 minutes. Can be used as a warm gargle for a sore throat. 

Did you know? Swedish botanist and physician, Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778), believed he could cure his gout and kidney stones with wild strawberry plants. He used the plant voraciously in various forms and did, in fact, cure himself. 

Your Own Medicinal Plant Garden

Medicinal plants are a precious gift for holistic healing and wholeness, and luckily for us here in California, we are blessed with an abundance of medicinal flora all around us. Foraging for medicinal plants, or creating your own medicinal garden is simple, easy, cost-effective, and rewarding.

Milk Thistle, Yarrow, California Sagebrush, Yellow Mustard, Fennel, Dandelion, Chamomile, Miner’s Lettuce, Queen Anne’s Lace, and Wild Strawberry are ten potent and effective medicinal plants, used for a plethora of illnesses and issues, but they are just a fraction of what’s out there!

I would encourage you to get started with these and continue adding new medicinal plants to your healing garden as you find them along the way! 

*I am not a doctor and these statements have not been approved by the FDA. Some conditions may not bode well with medicinal tonics. Please check with your doctor before you indulge. However, I strongly believe in the power of regenerative and healing herbs and plants, and I make and drink these tonics myself. 

Here are some ideas on what to use to make the most of your balcony space, helpful self-watering resources, and 13 of the best vegetables to grow in small spaces.

Balcony Vegetable Garden- Essential Equipment

When you plan you balcony vegetable garden, space is definitely the most important consideration. There are several ways to maximize your space to grow a wide variety of veggies that you can use in dishes you make in your own kitchen.

Vertical Garden Options

Vertical gardening is a great way to maximize this space. Amazon has this neat and inexpensive stackable garden tower that includes five tiers with 15 little spots for plants. It is only 24 inches tall, so you may want to put it on something to elevate it and rotate the tower every few days to make sure all the plants have access to sun.

Another more expensive but overall better option is the Tower Garden. This gardening system uses hydroponics to grow a large amount of food in a small space. It reduces water usage by 95% in comparison to conventional gardening which is a big plus in drought-prone areas like California.

Using a self-watering sytem means that you won’t have to worry about watering your balcony vegetable garden every day and you can even be gone for a week and not have to worry about someone checking on your plants.

The Tower Garden is 62 inches high, and its water reservoir, which can hold 20 gallons of water, has a diameter of 30 inches. So it can fit in a space that is three feet square but since plants grow out of it, it is good to not place it right up against a wall.

I also suggest putting it on wheels (just buy a round planter base like this one at your local garden center) so that you can rotate the garden easily to distribute sunlight.

You will need access to electricity since this system uses a pump to move water up to the top of the Tower Garden. I have had my Tower Garden on my backyard patio for nearly a decade now and find that it is best for growing greens, peppers, strawberries, and herbs. You can buy an attachment cage to grow vining vegetables as well like tomatoes and cucumbers.

There is one major drawback to the Tower Garden. It is expensive. It is about $700 to buy the system which includes the tower, a pump, a variety of seeds, the rockwool which the seedling grow in, and the growing solutions which act as organic fertilizers for the plants. But, if you use it frequently, it will pay for itself in organic produce eventually.

Aeroponics sells a system that seems to be incredibly similar to the Tower Garden but it is currently only $450. It does not include seeds. The tower comes with everything you need for your first planting except for plants. Cups, rockwool pods for planting seeds, minerals A/B, and pump are all included. I have not personally used this system so I can’t vouch for it, but the reviews are good.

Replacement rockwool and hydroponic growing minerals can be purchased on Amazon and used with both systems. You will also want to check the PH of your water and adjust as needed to make sure your plants are growing in optimum conditions.

Self-Watering Raised Gardens

If you are like me and have a bad back, you know might want to have a raised garden on your balcony. I purchased this self-watering elevated planter from Costco last year and I have really liked growing things like lettuce, strawberries, peppers, and herbs in it.

I have found that newly planted crops with shallow roots don’t initially benefit from the self water feature so I do still have to water it regularly. Still, it is very easy to access and since it is on wheels, it is easy to move around.

Amazon has a variety of other options as well, including one garden that has multiple configuration options which will help you make the most of your balcony garden.

Self-Watering Drip Irrigation Kits

Of course, most balcony gardens have several different pots that will need to be watered, and daily watering can be a major pain. Using a solar powered irrigation system on a timer can be life changing. These are also great for when you go on vacation and don’t want to ask your neighbors to be plant babysitters.

The 13 Best Things to Grow in Your Balcony Vegetable Garden

There are several different herbs and foods that you can grow in your balcony vegetable garden. Here are some veggies that grow especially well in small spaces.

1. Lettuces

Lettuces are extremely easy to grow from seed and don’t take up much space, making them perfect for your balcony vegetable garden.

The key to always having lettuce for your salad is to sow seeds in succession. This means you plant seeds about 10-20 days apart to ensure you plants mature at different rates.

Some of my favorite lettuces to grow in small spaces are butterhead lettuce, red leaf lettuce, and romaine. Keep in mind that lettucess are generally not heat tolerant and do best when the weather is below 90 degrees. Their happy place is when highs are in the 60s and 70s.

2. Swiss Chard

Swiss chard is a hearty green that can stand up well to cooking and provides plenty of nutrition. Chopping this vegetable up and adding it to soups, stir fries, casseroles, and pasta dishes like lasagna is a great way to make the dish more healthy.

Chard can be grown in containers, making it suitable for small spaces like balconies. It also pairs well with other vegetables like beans, peas, tomatoes, and herbs in your garden.

Choose a container that is at least 12 inches deep to allow for proper root development. Chard leaves can be harvested as baby greens or allowed to reach full size. Pick the outer leaves regularly to encourage new growth. You can continue harvesting from the same plant throughout the growing season.

Growing Swiss chard from seed is very easy. First soak your seeds in water for 15 minutes immediately before sowing. Then, plant your seeds ½ inch below the soil. Germination takes one to two weeks and is best done between 50 and 80 degrees. You will have mature plants in 10-12 weeks.

Regular Swiss chard is a good option but rainbow chard is a more beautiful addition to your garden. It produces plants with yellow, red, pink, and white stems.

3. Arugula

Arugula is my favorite green to add to a salad. Technically an herb, it has this peppery, mustardy bite that brings more flavor to dishes. It is a welcome addition to pizzas, sandwiches, quiches, and pesto.

Arugula is incredibly easy to grow at home in your balcony garden, and if you grow it in two week successions, you will have a harvest all season long.

Seeds are easy to germinate and should be covered with just a quarter inch of soil. In just a week sprouts will begin to appear. Harvest your arugula when stems are about 2-3 inches tall which take will take about 4-6 weeks from seed planting. If you let arugula stems grow too big, they will get tougher and more bitter.

Arugula made our list of the best herbs to grow in Southern California.

4. Radishes

Radishes are one of the easiest things to grow in a balcony vegetable garden. They grow easily from seed, don’t take long to mature, and provide a nice bite when the bulbs are sliced in salads. You can even add their tops to salads as well.

Radishes do best in cooler weather (below 75) but a frost will kill them. They are best suited for summer and fall if you live in an area that does receive frost. You can plant seeds an inch apart and 1/2 deep. They can usually be harvested 3-5 weeks after planting.

Radishes come in such a beautiful variety of colors and shapes. I love the Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds Easter Basket Mix which contains about 15 varieties.

5. Tomatoes

Tomatoes taste so much better when they are homegrown! The difference in flavor is truly remarkable. If you haven’t grown your own tomatoes before, make this year the year you do it!

Most tomatoes at the grocery store are picked when they are green to help them survive shipping and prolong shelf life. This does not allow the sun to sweeten the tomato and add more flavor. A homegrown tomato can be picked at peak ripeness, resulting in a much better tasting tomato.

It is important to pick the right tomatoes to grow in your balcony vegetable garden. Luckily, there are several great options for small spaces. Tomatoes prefer hot weather and plenty of sun, so give them the sunniest spot on your balcony.

Many cherry and grape tomatoes varieties have been cultivated to grow well in containers. The most easily available as seedlings are Better Bush and Sungold, but check your local garden center to see what they have.

Bush Early Girl and Bush Beefsteak are nice options for containers and they produce more standard-size tomatoes that are great for slicing and salsa. If you are interested in making fresh sauces or canning, Roma tomatoes can be grown in containers as well.

Of course, tomato planting isn’t foolproof, but I have all the secrets to a bumper crop. Check out my article filled with tomato growing tips.

Running into problems with your tomatoes? Here is an article dedicated to tomato plant problems and how to fix them.

6. Kitchen Herbs

No balcony vegetable garden is complete without some of the most common herbs used in the kitchen. Purchasing fresh herbs at the grocery store can be expensive but growing them is easy and they all tolerate small spaces.

I prefer to buy many of my kitchen herbs as seedlings from my local garden center. I always have basil, oregano, thyme, and sage on hand. They can all grow in the same space, though oregano can take over a pot easily, so be sure to keep it cut back or move it to its own small pot.

Cilantro and parsley are easy to grow from seed but they bolt quickly if it is warm, so I tend to only stick to cool season plantings.

I have a bay laurel plant on my patio so I always have bay leaves on hand. These small trees do well in a container. Rosemary is grown as a hedge in my area and many of my neighbors have it and are willing to share, so I skip it.

Mint is a plant that you should only grow in containers because it has a tendancy to take over a yard if given the chance. Your balcony garden can have several small pots filled with interesting mint varieties like chocolate pint, pineapple mint, and peppermint.

7. Upright Squash

Summer squash grows like a weed in hot weather, but it also takes up quite a bit of space, so most people don’t grow them on their balconies. But recently, there was an exciting development in the world of squash…

Burpee is selling a Rise and Shine Hybrid summer squash which is essentially a yellow zucchini, and it grows upright! You will need to stake it like a tomato plant but when you do you will get a plant that can grow up to four feet high with a three-foot spread! That’s pretty compact! And the plant is quite prolific in its production, especially when the weather heats up.

Squash need pollinators like bees or other insects in order to transfer the pollen from the male flower to female flower. If you don’t have pollinators in your area, you will have to hand pollinate which is easy. Here is a great video explaining how to do it:

8. Cucumbers

Growing cucumbers in pots is a great option for those setting up a balcony garden, just be sure to put the plant in a pot that is 12-18 inches deep and wide to provide enough room for the cucumber plant to grow.

If starting from seeds, plant a few seeds about one inch deep in the center of the pot. Once they germinate, thin out the weakest seedlings, leaving only one or two plants. Or, take the easy route like I do, and purchase seedlings at the garden center.

Cucumbers are vining plants that benefit from vertical support. You will need to provide a trellis or a tomato cage for the plant to climb.

Cucumber plants do require pollination for fruit set. If you don’t have pollinators nearby, you will need to hand polinate like the squash plants (see above).

9. Peppers

I love growing peppers! There are thousands of pepper varieties available, each with its unique characteristics in terms of flavor, heat level, shape, size, and color.

I always plant jalapenos, a pepper for stuffing like Anaheim or pasillas, purple bell peppers because the are pretty and tasty, and shishito peppers which are great stir fried with oil and salt. I also try to plant a new-to-me variety each year.

Peppers are easy to grow in pots. They typically need a pot that is at least 12-16 inches in diameter and has drainage holes at the bottom so the roots don’t rot. Peppers love sun, but if temperatures got super hot, like above 90, it can burn them a bit so a little shade during heat waves can be a good thing.

10. Peas

Fresh peas are the best and you can enjoy them by growing them easily right on your balcony! All you need is a pot and a trellis (if you pick a vining variety). Choose a well-draining pot that is at least 12-18 inches deep and wide. Sow the pea seeds directly into the pot, planting the seeds about 1-2 inches deep.

Peas are typically ready for harvest around 60-70 days after planting, depending on the variety. Harvest the pods when they are plump and the peas inside have developed. Pick the pods regularly to encourage continuous production.

Tom Thumb is an extremely compact pea variety, reaching only 8-10 inches in height. It’s perfect for small pots and produces sweet, tender peas. Little Marvel is a popular dwarf variety that grows to about two feet in height. It produces a bounty of sweet and flavorful peas.

If you are looking to plant snap peas, Oregon Sugar Pod is a snap pea variety that grows to about three feet tall. It produces stringless, crisp pods that are delicious in stir-fries and salads.

11. Green Beans

Growing pole beans in pots can be a rewarding experience because fresh green beans are tasty right off the vine. They are easy enough to grow in pots as long as you plant them in well-drained potting soil that is in a pot that is at least 12-18 inches in diameter and depth.

It is important to plant beans when soil is warm (minimum 60 degrees). They also need to be trellissed since pole beans are vining beans.

Kentucky Wonder is a heirloom variety is a classic pole bean with a rich flavor. It produces long, stringless pods and is known for its reliable yield. If you are looking for a show stopper, check out Scarlet Runner which is prized for its beautiful red flowers and edible pods. It’s a vigorous climber that adds visual appeal to the garden.

If you choose to plant a bush bean, I highly recommend the beautiful dragon tongue bean plant that has green pods that are striped with purple and has a delicate flavor.

12. Carrots

Carrots are a fun and easy vegetable to grow on a balcony. I like to grow my carrots in window boxes because they are deep enough to handle the carrot’s root but don’t take up too much room. Make sure your soil isn’t too dense- you want those roots to grow easily!

Carrots need regular watering, especially during dry spells, to prevent them from becoming tough or cracked. Water deeply to ensure that the moisture reaches the deeper roots. Using a drip water system is a good idea. They prefer cooler temperatures and are a great veggie to grow in the spring or fall.

Some carrot varieties that are well-suited for container gardening include Thumbelina, Paris Market, Little Finger, and Nantes. These varieties tend to be smaller in size, mature quickly, and have a good flavor. I like to grow varieties that aren’t easily found in grocery stores like Cosmic Purple.

13. Beets

Last but not least is the mighty beet. For many years, I was not a fan of beets. I thought they tasted like dirt. But I knew they were good for me so I persisted in trying them, and now they are one of my favorite vegetables!

Choose a container that is at least 8-10 inches deep to allow room for the beet roots to develop. The container should also have sufficient width to accommodate multiple beet plants. A rectangular or round container works well for growing beets.

You are better off sowing beet seeds directly into the container instead of trying to transfer seedlings. Scatter the seeds evenly over the moist soil surface, leaving about two inches of space between each seed and cover them with about a 1/2 inch of soil.

Beets like cooler temperatures and can tolerate some shade, especially in warmer climates, but at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily is preferred. Beets are typically ready for harvest 55-70 days after sowing.

Beet varieties that are well-suited for container gardening include Babybeat, Bull’s Blood, Cylindra, and Detroit Dark Red. These varieties are known for their compact size, quick maturity, and good flavor. I also love chioggia beets because the red and white stripes are so lovely.

Container fruit trees are attractive, easy to manage, and don’t take up very much space at all. Here are some of my favorite patio fruit trees. They look great and produce fruit 10 times better than you will find at the grocery store!

These patio fruit trees all grow well in California. Some of them, such as the citrus trees, will need to be brought inside during a frost but as long as you give them a sunny window, they should do well. Use this guide to bring a splash of color to your yard, no matter its size.

The 10 Best Container Fruit Trees for Your Patio

1. Lemon Tree

Lemons are probably the most classic patio trees in California. They are easy to grow in our mild climate and the convenience of being able to pick a lemon right off the tree whenever you need one just can’t be beat!

Growing lemons as container fruit trees also means that you can still have a lemon tree in areas that a subject to freezes in the winter. Simply bring the plant indoors when the first frost hits and keep it in a sunny window.

A lemon tree planted in a glazed ceramic pot is a cheerful and welcoming addition to a front yard walkway.

Dwarf Lemons are ideally suited for 15 gallon pots. You can go as small as 5 gallon, but this will reduce production. Choose a more lightweight container (like plastic) if you will have to move your tree indoors for the winter.

Recommended Lemon Varieties to Use as Container Fruit Trees

Whichever lemon you choose, be sure to purchase a dwarf variety. Meyer Improved dwarf lemon trees produce fruit with excellent flavor and grow well in a pot.

Pink Variegated lemons are stunners. They have lovely variegated foliage and produce fruit with green and yellow stripes and pink flesh! They have the flavor of a standard Eureka (similar to grocery store varieties) lemon and are dwarves.

Tomatoes also do well in a warm, sunny climate! Check out our tomato growing tips to ensure you have a bountiful tomato harvest.

2. Pomegranate 

There is just something so beautiful about a pomegranate. It has this primitive, forbidden fruit vibe and the delicate arils are a wonderful addition to a salad or cheese platter.

Pomegranates can be expensive or hard to find in grocery stores, so having a tree at home is key for pomegranate lovers.

Pomegranate trees are ridiculously easy to grow in warm climates. They require far less water than many other tropical fruits, and it is best to let the soil dry out a bit in between waterings. They are not evergreen, and do lose their leaves in the fall.

Pomegranate trees can have the appearance of a shrub or a tree, depending on how you prune them. They are wonderful additions to a patio garden.

Recommended Pomegranate Varieties to Use as Container Fruit Trees

Opt for a dwarf variety of pomegranate as full size trees can row 20 feet in size. State Fair grows to about 5 feet and is best suited for a 15 gallon pot. Nana is only 2 to 3 feet tall and can grow quite happily in a 5-10 gallon pot.

3. Kumquat

Kumquats are one of those fruits that many people have never actually tasted, let alone heard of. They are in the citrus family, native to China, and are a symbol of good luck.

Unlike most citrus fruit, the outer rind of this fruit is edible, and the sweetest part of the the fruit. I like to think of a kumquat as a tiny, reverse orange.

The rind is sweeter and the juice is tart and bitter. To eat a kumquat, simply pop the entire thing in your moth and chew to enjoy the sweet and tart tastes together. Kumquats are also great sliced and candied.

Kumquat trees are naturally small and perfect for a patio. They are also pretty hardy. Once I left on vacation and my house sitter failed to water my kumquat tree. It lost all of its leaves and I thought it was dead.

I left it in the corner of the yard for months. Then, it started to rain and suddenly, my kumquat began to sprout leaves and green stems once again! It had sprung back to life and even fruited that year!

Recommended Kumquat Variety to Use as Container Fruit Tree

The Nagami Kumquat is by far the most popular variety out there. It is perfect for a container. It can grow well in a 10 or 15 gallon pot. They do require frequent watering, especially in the summer when it is hot and dry.

4. Fig

My grandmother had a fig tree in her yard. It was ancient and grand, but it was also very large. Thankfully, you can grow a fig tree in a container so that you can enjoy the sweet flavor of a fresh fig without having it take up so much space.

Fig trees can take 8-10 years to start producing fruit when planted in ground but they produce fruit at within a couple years of planting inside of a container. Why? Because figs produce fruit best when their roots are constrained.

You can start with a smaller container and then transplant every couple of years until you reach the maximum size you would like your fig tree to grow. A half whiskey barrel is a great option for a fig tree.

Give it some sun and water and your fig will be quite happy. Water is the key to plump fruit, but don’t overwater! If your fig’s leaves begin to yellow, dial it back a bit.

You may have to throw a net over the tree during fruit season because squirrels are just as big of fans of figs as we are!

Recommended Fig Variety to Use as Container Fruit Tree

Mission figs are the most popular, but they grow quickly and aren’t ideal for a container. Instead, try varieties like Petite Negri fig and Brown Turkey. They are better suited to small spaces and can tolerate frequent pruning.

5. Clementines

Not all mandarin orange trees are clementines, but all clementines are mandarin oranges. The fruit from this version of the mandarin orange is super easy to peel, mostly seedless, smaller in size, and full of flavor. It is the perfect “eat from the tree” orange for families.

Clementine trees are naturally shorter than standard oranges, making them one of the best container fruit trees for your patio. They are often grafted on dwarf stock, so they will be small in stature but voluminous in production. They are also very attractive trees.

The tree typically produces fruit in the late fall or early winter. As with all citrus trees, you will need to protect it from freezes. A Satsuma mandarin is also similar to the clementine and produces fruit that are very easy to peel as well.

6. Dragon Fruit

Dragon fruit (or Piraya) is another one of those exotic fruits that does extremely well in a container. In an arid climate like we have in Southern California, I have seen lots of dragon fruit plants potted in people’s yards.

The plant is native to South America and is a member of the cactus family which means it doesn’t need much water (score!). You want to plant a dragon fruit in sandy cactus soil. They can be grown easily from cuttings or just pick one up at your local nursery.

Dragon fruit do not tolerate freezes or prolonged temperatures over 100. So if you live in an area with extended periods of weather during the summer where your temps hover above 100, it probably isn’t a good fit for you.

Dragon fruit plants do need to be supported with a stake or trellis since it is a climbing plant. They bloom at night, so it is fun to go out and check out the blooms when the sun sets. When the plant is about 3 years old and 5 feet tall it will start producing fruit.

The fruit tastes like a mild kiwi and can be halved and scooped right out with a spoon. It is nice in salads or smoothies and full of  antioxidants.

Recommended Dragon Fruit Varieties to Use as Container Fruit Tree

The variety you choose largely depends on what color flesh you are looking for. If you want the bright pink flesh to brighten up the color of smoothies, try the American Beauty. It self pollinates which is nice because many dragon fruit varieties require hand pollination or cross pollination from another dragon fruit. 

If you prefer the white flesh variety try a Yellow Dragon Fruit. The exterior is yellow and the interior is white. It is self pollinating and said to be the sweetest of all the dragon fruit varieties.

The Vietnamese Jaina is another option if you would like a self-pollenating plant that has pink skin and white flesh.

7. Lime

The convenience of having a lime tree on your patio can’t be beat! I planted my lime tree in the ground and it got so big that I have limes coming out of my eyeballs!

In hindsight, I wish I would have planted my tree in a pot. That would have resulted in a smaller tree and much more manageable lime production.

Limes, like oranges and lemons, need to be protected from freezes and require regular watering.

Did you know that many limes varieties are actually at their ripest and most juicy when their skin changes from green to yellow? I didn’t until I planted my own lime tree!

Recommended Lime Varieties to Use as Container Fruit Tree

When planting limes, you need to decide which size limes you prefer. If you are looking for the little limes that are perfect for beer, you are best off with a Mexican Key Lime tree. Choose a dwarf variety to limit the tree size.

If you would prefer the more traditional lime size that you see in grocery stores (generally better for juicing), go with a Bearrs or Persian Lime tree. My Bearrs lime tree produces limes nearly year round.

8. Guava

Guavas are easy to grow and taste great, making them another one of those container fruit trees you will want to add to your patio. Guavas are fairly drought tolerant once established and many varieties can handle a dip in temps down into the 20s. 

Guavas have shallow roots and absorb water quickly, so they only need watering once a week in the summer and can go weeks without water during the winter.

Guava blossoms have a wonderful scent. The fruit take three to four months to mature after flowering. If your guava is a good producer, it is recommended that you thin fruit out to a maximum of four per branch, to keep the branches from breaking under the weight.

I suggest planting your guava in a 15 gallon pot to allow it room to grow. They have more of a shrub-like appearance than a traditional tree shape.

Recommended Guava Varieties to Use as Container Fruit Tree

There are over 100 varieties of guava out there, and many have distinctly different flavors so you may want to add more than one option to your patio garden.

Pineapple Guava is a very popular container plant. It has beautiful blossoms (which are edible and have a bit of a cinnamon taste) and the fruit reminds many of the flavor of Juicyfruit gum. It is delicious!

The Brazilian Pink Guava has a sweet, traditional guava flavor and are great picked right off the tree! They do very well in containers and are drought tolerant. The fruits ripens in California during the fall.

The Strawberry Guava also has a traditional guava flavor and does very well in pots. It grows so well that it is considered to be an invasive species in some areas!

9. Loquat

If you haven’t had the pleasure of tasting a loquat, than you are really missing out.

We had a loquat tree in our backyard when I was growing up and I used to eat them right off the tree until I made myself sick! It is sweet and tart, kind of like a cross between an apricot and a pineapple with citrusy undertones.

Most of the main population centers in California are well suited for loquat rowing, especially in Southern California. They do very well in containers as long as they are well-watered and provided with ample sunlight.

Loquat trees do best in containers that are at least 15 gallons in size.

Like citrus, they do well with deep watering and fertilization a couple times a year. You may need to net your tree during fruit season if the neighborhood birds catch on to how tasty these fruit are.

The fruit has orange flesh and yellowish-orange skin that bruises easily when ripe. This makes it hard to transport, which is why you don’t often see loquats in grocery stores. It also makes it an ideal pick-and-eat backyard fruit.

Recommended Loquat Variety to Use as Container Fruit Tree

The Gold Nugget loquat is the most popular variety.  It self pollinates and is a prolific bearer of fruit. Be sure to plant a dwarf variety (which are usually grafted onto a quince stock).

10. Apple

I will never forget the first time I saw an espalier apple tree growing. An espalier fruit tree is one whose whose branches are trained to grow flat against a wall, supported by a lattice. 

It was such a clever idea. It allows people with small backyards or patios to enjoy their very own homegrown apples without dedicating a massive space to an apple tree!

Recommended Apple Varieties to Use as Container Fruit Tree

There are literally dozens and dozens of apple varieties out there, and it is important to choose a variety that will do best in your climate.

In Southern California, we don’t get very many chill hours so a low chill variety is key. The Anna apple is a popular espalier variety in California, it is ideal for small spaces.

Another great option is the Fuji apple. It is known for its great flavor and does well on a trellis. While you can attempt to trellis your own sapling, I suggest purchased one that is already espaliered from a local nursery,

It happens every summer. I wander into the backyard of a friend and discover a pitiful tomato plant, neglected and desperately struggling to produce a few yellow blossoms. Meanwhile, in my small suburban backyard, I have a jungle of tomatoes rapidly taking over my raised bed. Vines soar six feet into the air, filled to the brim with juicy fruit waiting to be transformed into salsas, sauces, or sprinkled with a bit of salt and devoured right in the backyard.

People tell me that I have a green thumb. I disagree. I simply know the secrets to a successful tomato crop. I also know that after the initial set up, it really doesn’t take much work at all to produce the bumper crop of your dreams. Here are 10 of my favorite tomato growing tips.

Warning: there is nothing quite like a home grown tomato. After making sandwiches, sauces, and salsas with the real deal, you will become addicted. Store-bought tomatoes will taste like bland mush.

Tomato Growing Tips for a Successful Tomato Crop

1. Select the Right Seed or Plant

The first key to a successful tomato crop is to pick the right tomato for your backyard. There are dozens of varieties specially bred for a variety of needs. Some are designed for climates with short, cool growing seasons. Many are great for slicing, while others are bred for using in sauces.

Selecting the right tomato plant may seem a bit daunting to first timers, but once you know which questions to ask yourself, you will feel like a kid in a candy store while strolling down your local nursery’s vegetable aisle.

Check out my post on 5 questions to ask yourself before purchasing a tomato plant and discover all you need to know about tomato selection.

2. Plant at the Right Time

Tomatoes do best when the days are warm and the nights are cool, but not cold. Frost will kill a tomato plant, so it is best to plant as soon as the danger of frost has passed in the spring.

You can find your local frost dates in the Farmer’s Almanac. In Orange County (USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 10a) where there is no real danger of frost, I typically plant in March. When I lived in Sacramento (Zone 9b), I tended to plant towards the middle of April. Visitthe USDA Plant Hardiness website to find out which zone you live in.

If you live in the Western United States, I highly suggest familiarizing yourself with Sunset’s climate zones. They take into account micro-climates and offer great insight into the specifics of what can successfully grow on your little dot on the map. In South Orange County, I currently live in zone 23, which is subtropical and great for growing all sorts of citrus, avocados, and yes, tomatoes.

3. Tomato Growing is All About Location, Location, Location

Tomatoes like sun. This means, it is crucial that you plant tomatoes in a spot that gets at least six hours of sun in order to have a crop. You want at least eight hours of sun to have a bountiful crop.

These hours of sunshine do not need to be consecutive. If you aren’t willing or able to give your tomatoes six hours of sun, don’t even bother planting them.  This is not one of those tomato growing tips that you can ignore. You will end up with piddly, disappointing plants.

If you are planting near a wall, house, tree, or other shade-producing structure, pay attention to which hours your plot will be receiving sun. I like planting my tomatoes in a spot that will get a decent amount of afternoon sun because tomatoes love heat.

If you live in a climate that experiences more extreme heat, such as the desert, you may want to focus more on the earlier sun and not plant next to a cement wall, which will further radiate heat.

While tomatoes can grow in compact spaces, they do need some room to grow. I suggest planting seedlings at least 18-24 inches apart.

4. Tomato Growing is Also All About the Dirt

This is one of those tomato growing tips that should not be ignored, especially if you want to produce a big crop. Planting your tomatoes in the wrong soil is like feeding your kids a diet entirely of fast food. They will probably survive, but they will be completely unhealthy and never reach their full potential.

Tomatoes grow fast and pull nutrients from the soil in order to produce fruit. They grow best in soil that that is slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.0-6.8. I don’t typically test the pH of my soil (but it is easy to do with a pH test meter) because I grow my vegetables in raised beds, which are filled with good top soil mixed with 2-3 inches of compost.

Raised beds should be at least 12 inches deep. It is important that you mix in some new compost each year to retain the health of your soil year after year. I highly recommend growing in raised beds, especially if you are trying to be productive in a small amount of space.

If you are planting directly in the ground, test your soil to see what you are working with. You will need to break up your soil (especially if you have clay soil) and likely have to amend it in order to achieve the proper pH (typically by adding sulfur or lime). Soil should be tilled to the depth of 6-8 inches. Compost should also be added to help break up both sandy and clay soils and help absorb moisture.

5. Water is Key

Of all my tomato growing tips, I feel like this is the one that people can’t seem to get right. Tomatoes need water. Giving them a quick soak with the hose for 30 seconds every few days is a recipe for disaster. People have good intentions but then they get distracted by life and four days into a heat wave they discover half dead plants.

I highly recommend installing a drip irrigation system to water your tomatoes. This will allow you to use less water and target each tomato plant individually.

Plus, you can put your drip system on a timer and then set it, and forget it! Drip systems are easy to install, especially if you have an existing sprinkler line or faucet you can tap into. Here is one of many online drip system installation guides.

Another benefit of using a drip system is that it will help you avoid tomato rot which can occur when using overhead watering (ie: sprinklers or hose).

6. Mulch Your Tomato Plants- Yes, It’s Important!

This tomato growing tip is connected to the previous tip about water. During the hot summer months when tomato plants are supposed to be producing at their best, evaporation can become one of a tomato plant’s greatest enemies. Mulch prevents evaporation and soil erosion. 

Mulch basically acts as shade and protection for your precious, nutrient-dense soil. It helps ensure that the water you have given your tomato plants stays in the ground so that the plant’s roots can continue to absorb it.

Another reason mulch is beneficial is because as it biodegrades, it helps feed your soil and make new soil. Decaying organic material is essentially what good soil is made of. It also helps improve the overall appearance of your tomato garden. After all, who doesn’t love a neat and tidy looking garden?

Finally, mulch helps reduce weed infestations. Nobody wants weeds in their beautiful vegetable garden and mulch can greatly reduce the amount of time you will spend weeding your beds. 

I like to use bark mulch that I purchase from a local nursery or home improvement store. I re-mulch my garden every year after I plant my tomatoes. 

7. Feed Your Tomato Plants!

So many people seem to skip this part. One of my most important tomato growing tips is to actually feed your tomatoes! Your tomato plants are growing at a rapid rate and sunlight, soil, and water is simply not enough to sustain a healthy production rate. 

What do you feed tomato plants? I like to keep my garden organic so I purchase organic tomato food. A good tomato food has nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in it. Nitrogen stimulates chlorophyll production, phosphorus is important to developing strong flowers and fruit, and potassium helps strengthen the roots. 

Tomato food comes in a variety of forms such as liquid, granular, and stakes. I have always used granular tomato food because it is easy to deliver the proper amount per plant, releases slowly, and stores well. There are many great brands out there which can be found on Amazon, at home improvement stores, or local nurseries. One brand I can recommend is Jobes Organics.

Directions are on the packaging of the plant food, but I typically feed my tomato plants when I first plant them and then begin fertilizing them every 4-6 weeks after the first fruit begins to appear. Make sure not to over-fertilize your tomatoes! Too much fertilizer or direct contact with fertilizer on the plant roots can burn the plant’s leaves.

8. Stake Those Bad Boys

Like a teenager going through their first breakup, tomatoes need support. No, this doesn’t mean that they need a hug or a shoulder to lean on; they need actual physical support!

Without support, indeterminate tomatoes grow on the ground like vines and their leaves and fruit are more susceptible to fruit rot and sunburn. When the vines are staked, the fruit is shaded by the leaves and less like to be exposed to constant moisture. It is also much easier to see and pick ripe fruit.

Many people use circular, wire tomato cages. I am personally not a fan of these. They are typically are much too short to support my tomato plants (which usually extend to six feet in the air during peak season) and quite frankly, can be expensive and difficult to store.

Staking your tomatoes is inexpensive and effective. I either use bamboo stakes or plastic-coated metal stakes that can be used year after year, but wooden stakes are a great option as well. The system I typically use involves using stakes in combination with garden twine. Here is a great video tutorial which covers the details. 

Important note: Determinate tomatoes are bushier plants which tend to be smaller since they have a limited harvest. They work well in cages. 

9. Prune Now For Higher Yields Later

I often wonder if casual, backyard gardeners know that they are supposed to prune their tomato plants. My guess is that most don’t. I certainly had no idea in my tomato farming days 20 years ago.

Believe it or not, pruning your tomato plants will result in more fruit, especially if you are trying to grow multiple tomato plants in a compact area. It is important to prune any leaves which might be touching the ground (to prevent rot and disease) as well as remove some suckers to keep things neat and tidy. 

What is a tomato sucker? It is basically another little tomato plant that grows out of the joint of a tomato plant where a branch meets the stem. These shoots will turn into full size tomato plants if left alone. The more suckers you have, the less resources the main tomato plant has (plus, things can get unruly). 

I typically remove suckers until the plant gets to be sturdy and at least a couple feet off the ground. I may let a couple suckers stick around if I have the space and feel like they are interfering too much with the overall shape of the plant. 

There are so many schools of thought on tomato pruning and endless Youtube videos on the subject. Here is the school of thought I tend to follow. 

10. Keep Those Tomato Pests and Diseases Away

You have beautiful tomato plants filled with ripening fruit and suddenly a pest invasion occurs. Gah! Don’t fret, there are many solutions to common pests and diseases. Here are a few of the problems I most commonly encounter and what to do about them. 

1. Tomato Hookworms

Tomato hornworms are gross and destructive. Many people new to tomato growing might mistake them for caterpillars. They are bright green, leave dark droppings everywhere, and can rapidly eat your tomato plants!

While you can use insecticides to get rid of them, I keep my garden organic and have found hand removal to be easy and effective. I check my tomatoes regularly during the growing season and simply pluck and chuck (while screaming obscenities) those little jerks away. Planting marigolds in the same bed as your tomato plants can be good deterrent as well. Their scent keeps several pests away.

2. Aphids

Ew. I hate aphids. They can be so damaging to a garden and leave this sticky, gross substance behind. Check the underside of your plants leaves and if you little dot-like creatures on the on them, you likely have aphids.

I pull leaves that are heavily infected and then apply a diluted soap spray to the plant, which kills the aphids. The ratio of soap to water in your spray should be approximately 2 tblsp dish soap per gallon of water. If you are just using a standard squirt bottle, put a couple drops in the bottom and then fill up with warm water and start spraying those leaves!

3. Birds and Rodents

I have the same bird show up every single year to feast on my tomatoes. He is a tropical-looking bird with vibrant yellow and black feathers and a hunger for partially ripened tomatoes. I call him “Bitch Bird”. He is not to be outdone by his pals, “Asshole Opossum” or “Jerkface Rat”. 

How do I keep the local wildlife from feasting on my tomato harvest? I use a mesh net to cover my plants when the tomato feast party seems to be getting out of control. They still get a nibble on some of the tomatoes on the outer edge of the garden, but the net drastically reduces their tomato consumption rate.

I keep the net secure at the bottom by using a combination of stakes and bricks. Yes, it is a major pain. Yes, my garden is less aesthetically pleasing when I have to put the net up. But I want to actually enjoy my tomatoes, so these are the sacrifices I have to make. 

4. Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew basically looks like white must on your tomato plants. I most often find it on my squash plants, but have definitely encountered it on tomatoes as well. It is often caused by humidity. I typically use the same soap and water solution as I do on aphids and it gets rid of it. I also pull the most infected leaves. 

5. Blossom End Rot

If you are noticing a dark, brownish spot on the bottom end of your fruit, you have blossom end rot. This is cause by two things- uneven watering and calcium deficiency. Both of these problems can be solved by following my previous tomato growing tips on watering, feeding, and mulching.

6. Fruit Cracking

This is another condition caused by uneven watering. Keep your tomato watering on a schedule and cracking will be at a minimum. Overhead watering is another source of fruit cracking, so try to avoid that. Hot, rainy weather is can cause fruit cracking, but there isn’t much you can do about that. 

Here is a link to a good resource  that covers several more tomato problems and how to fix them. 

Featured image via Flickr/Lufa Farms

The first secret to a successful tomato crop is selecting the right tomato for your backyard. Here are five questions to ask yourself before purchasing a tomato plant.

After you purchase your plants and put them in the ground, use these tomato growing tips to ensure a bountiful harvest!

Tomato Planting Tips- What to Ask Yourself Before Purchasing a Tomato Plant

1. Do I Want Determinate or Indeterminate Tomatoes?

There are two different types of tomatoes. Determinate tomato plants produce all of their fruit at the same point in the season while indeterminate tomatoes continue producing through the season.

As far as I’m concerned, there are only two reasons for buying determinate tomatoes:

1. You want to do all your canning and sauce-making at one time.
2. You are plotting to have a massive tomato fight with all of your neighbors.

As tempting as the tomato fight may be, I still purchase indeterminate tomatoes because I would much rather extend my tomato production through the season. The plant or seed label usually lists whether the variety is determinate or indeterminate.  If you can’t find the info on the label, a quick Google search works.

2. Is this Tomato Right for My Climate?

There are dozens of varieties of tomatoes out there. Some are cultivated to respond to short growing seasons and cooler temps, while others were developed with humidity and oppressive heat in mind.

One of my most important tomato planting tips is to pick a plant that is suitable for your climate. If you are purchasing seeds from an online source (I like Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds), read the description to determine where the tomatoes were developed.

Check out reviews and pay attention to the location of the reviewer. What may do well in the Pacific Northwest could be a total disaster in the Deep South.

One surefire way to pick tomatoes that are appropriate for your climate is to purchase seedlings from a local nursery. Any nursery worth its salt purchases varieties that are designed to thrive in your climate. 

Big box stores such as Walmart tend to sell the same few varieties around the country and their staff is usually less knowledgeable. Spending a bit more on the right seedling from a respected local source will pay off in a more fruitful tomato crop.

3. How Long Will the Plant Take to Mature?

When I select tomatoes for my backyard plot, I always pay attention to their maturation rates. Maturation rates are listed on the seed packet or seedling label.

I like to have a couple early season varieties, which bear fruit in as little as 50 days, as well as some that come to maturity at 80 or 90 days. This ensures a longer production season for my garden.

4. Does the Seedling look Healthy?

Of all my tomato planting tips, this one feels like a no-brainer, but it bears mentioning. If you are going to grow tomatoes from seedlings, pick out the healthiest of the bunch.

Take time to look at the seedling and pick the one that looks like it has more vigor and vitality than the rest. If the plant looks wilted, move on. If seedlings are stressed, they will take much longer to produce fruit.

Pro tip: Don’t waste your money purchasing a tomato plant that is bigger than a small seedling, especially if you live in a climate with a long growing season (like California).  

Your small seedling will grow rapidly as soon as the days are long and warm. The larger plants available for purchase at garden centers and nurseries are nothing more than scams to grab your $$$.

5. What is your Tomato End Game?

Ultimately, the type of tomato you should select largely depends on what you want to do with your tomato.

Some varieties, such as beefsteak, are great for slicing and placing on sandwiches. Others, like San Marzano, are paste tomatoes which are better for sauces and canning.

Pear and cherry tomatoes are great for salads or snacking right from the vine. Heirloom tomatoes in various shapes and sizes add color and sophistication to your dishes. 

A quick internet search will give should produce a  wealth of information about prospective tomato varieties.  I love to plant a variety of tomato plants that result in a rainbow of colors, sizes, and uses. Happy planting!

I have been an avid backyard farmer for over 20 years, and always have something tasty growing in my backyard garden. Decades of trial and error have taught me what thrives and what doesn’t. Here are the best vegetables to grow in Southern California.

The Best Vegetables to Grow in Southern California

1. Tomatoes

If you ask me, the absolute best vegetables to grow in Southern California are definitely tomatoes. Sure, they are technically a fruit, but we tend to lump them in the vegetable category when we think about food and crops.

Tomatoes taste so much better when they are homegrown! The difference in flavor is truly remarkable.

Most tomatoes at the grocery store are picked when they are green to help them survive shipping and prolong shelf life. A homegrown tomato can be picked at peak ripeness, resulting in a much more flavorful tomato.

The other great thing about growing tomatoes in your backyard is that you can grow a wide variety of heirlooms, slicing tomatoes, canning/sauce tomatoes, and pop-in-your-mouth-directly-from-the-vine cherry tomatoes.

Of course, tomato planting isn’t foolproof, but I have all the secrets to a bumper crop. Check out my article filled with tomato growing tips.

Running into problems with your tomatoes? Here is an article dedicated to tomato plant problems and how to fix them.

2. Eggplant

Eggplants have become a mainstay of my Southern California vegetable garden. They grow so well with little effort, and it is fun to grow beautiful heirloom varieties like the lavender Rosa Bianca eggplant variety. If you love to cook Asian food, consider growing the slender Japanese eggplant variety as well.

If you live in an are that doesn’t receive frost, your eggplant may become a perennial (ie: it grows year round). I simply cut my plant back in the fall when temps decline and let it winter over. New sprouts will start popping up in early spring.

3. Peppers

Pepper are another one of the best vegetables to grow in Southern California. They love heat and dislike cold temps, so they seem to be quite happy here in SoCal.

There are so many pepper varieties, and I encourage you to try a new one each spring, especially if you like a little heat in your dishes. I always have jalapenos and stuffing peppers, like poblanos, growing, but I also like to try less common options and discover new favorites.

Of course, not all peppers have to be spicy. Bell peppers are a good option for your Southern California vegetable garden as well. I like to grow purple bell peppers to add color to my garden and add pizzazz to dishes like fajitas.

4. Summer Squash

Summer squash grows like a weed in hot weather, so it is no surprise that it does well in our warm Southern California climate. It is one of the best vegetables to grow in Southern California, especially if you live in an inland valley.

My favorite summer squash to grow is zucchini. Once hot weather and peak production sets in, be sure to check your plant daily because zucchinis grow quick!

A monster-sized zucchini is fun to grow but it does lose flavor, so stick with small and medium-sized zucchinis for your dinner plate. Huge zucchinis are great for zucchini bread, however, so grate them and freeze them in Ziploc bags for future use.

Other summer squash that I have had success with are yellow crookneck squash and green or yellow patty pan squash. They each have their own unique flavor.

5. Winter Squash

Some of my favorite squash are winter squash. Butternut squash, spaghetti squash, acorn squash, and pumpkins all fall into this category.

The funny thing about winter squash is that you still plant it at the same time as summer squash, in early spring. Winter squash just have a much longer growing season.

Summer squash plants tend to be bushy and winter squash are typically vine plants. Those with smaller spaces might want to trellis these plants. Burpee now has a very cool variety of upright growing squash that I just ordered. I can’t wait to see the results!

6. Greens

There is something very satisfying about growing a salad. Most lettuces and salad greens like arugula and kale grow quite fast, so you can have a bountiful crop in a short period of time.

I grow my greens in an aeroponic Tower Garden which allows me to grow plenty of salad in a small space, and also happens to be very pretty to look at.

If you don’t want to invest in aeroponics, fear not! Greens still grow well in garden beds and small containers.

The key to always having greens is to sow them in succession. This means you plant seeds about 10-20 days apart to ensure you plants mature at different rates.

Greens are generally not heat tolerant and do best when the weather is below 90 degrees. Their happy place is when highs are in the 60s and 70s.

7. Radishes

Radishes are a fun addition to a Southern California vegetable garden during the late winter and early spring. Like lettuce, they don’t take long to mature, so you can enjoy your harvest quickly.

If you have young children, growing radishes is a good way to introduce them to crop lifecycles. They grow easily from seed, don’t take long to mature, and are fun to pull up out of the ground.

Radishes are easy to grow in containers as well so if you are short on space, give them a go! Don’t forget to use their tops in salads!

Radishes come in such a beautiful variety of colors and shapes. I love the Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds Easter Basket Mix which contains about 15 varieties.

8. Onions

Onions are so easy to grow and used constantly in meals, so why not grow some yourself? I have found that if I plant onions starts in between my tomato plants, it helps reduce pests.

I tend stick to green onions or small bulb white onions, but the sky is really the limit. You can even grow onions from the bottoms of discarded green onions in water, wait for new shoots to come up, and then plant them in the ground.

The other nice thing about growing onions is that they keep in the ground for a long time, so you can harvest as needed.

9. Garlic

Most garlic sold in the United States comes from California, so why not grow some in your vegetable garden?

Garlic is grown using garlic starts. They are essentially bulbs that are split into cloves and then planted, pointed side up. It does take a relatively long time for garlic to mature.

Plant cloves in early spring and stop watering in June. This will help bulb production. Cloves are ready for pulling in late July/early August when the tops have completely browned and dried out.

In order to be sure your garlic will keep, let them sit in a dry, shady area for 2-3 weeks.

10. Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is a fun addition to any Southern California garden. It does require some space, so most people plant small amounts as a novelty crop.

In order for sweet corn to pollinate, it is really best to have multiple rows of corn in a small patch of ground. 25 square feet with four rows of corn is an ideal minimum.

You can grow a smaller number of stalks, but hand pollination would be needed. Nearly all varieties of corn grow well in Southern California and since our growing season is long, you can grow rows in succession, beginning in March.

11. Beets

Beets are one of the best root vegetables to grow in Southern California. Unlike some root vegetables, they don’t need much room and are very simple to grow.

I plant my beets in a window box with a drip line in the late fall. They require very little effort are ready to harvest by the end of the year, and are tasty from top to bottom.

You can sow another crop in January and February. Just be sure to harvest before the weather gets too warm.

I love planting Chiogga beets with their pink and white variegated spirals because they taste great and are so pretty when sliced.

12. Beans

Planting pole beans in your Southern California vegetable garden is a great way to restore nitrogen in the soil and enjoy something tasty at the same time.

It is important to plant beans when soil is warm (minimum 60 degrees). Beans, like fava, are especially good for adding nitrogen production, though you may still need to increase the nitrogen to have a big yield.

I have found that my beans do not like it when the temps get too hot (consistently above 90) in the late summer and this will definitely slow down or stop production.

During the late spring, when bean production should be high, check your vines frequently and pick the beans when young if you want to eat them fresh. If you want to dry them, you can let them begin to dry right on the vine if there is no rain in the forecast.

I have never planted a large crop of beans and thus have never enjoyed a huge bounty, so I tend to plant varieties that are fun colors like Dragon’s Tongue, that are tasty to eat raw or cooked like a typical green bean.

13. Cucumbers

Cucumbers are definitely one of the best vegetables to grow in Southern California. They grow very easily as long as they are well-watered, and take up little space because they can be trellised.

I have found lemon cucumbers to grow like weeds in my backyard garden, producing quickly and consistently for months.

They have a distinctly different (and yes, lemony) flavor than regular cucumbers and should be picked when the skin is light yellow and not too orangy to avoid a woody skin.

Regular English or Perisan cucumbers grow quickly and easily as well, but the vines never seem to last long so the key to having a continuous cucumber crop is succession planting. Cucumbers mature around 50-70 days from planting.

14. Herbs

Yes, I know herbs aren’t technically a vegetable, but they really should be a part of your Southern California vegetable garden. Many herbs are incredibly easy to grow and take up little space.

Here are the 15 best herbs to grow in Southern California.

Plant the herbs that you use the most. I always have basil plant going. Be sure to pinch the flowers off your basil plant to increase leaf production and cut the whole things back once or twice during the growing season to promote new growth.

Parsley is another herb I always have growing in my raised beds. It is easy to grow and a common meal ingredient, so I like having it on hand.

Thyme is easy to grow and takes up relatively little space. It is a good one to plant in a container with other herbs like oregano and chives.

Sage grows wild in Southern California’s chaparral, so of course it would well in our home gardens. I like to plant attractive herbs like sage and lavender in my flower garden.

Rosemary can turn into a large hedge and is extremely hardy. It is also incredibly common in my neck of the woods, so I don’t grow it at home. I am lucky to always have a neighbor with a plant in their front yard who is happy to share.

Mint is another hardy herb, so hardy that it can become quite invasive if planted directly in the ground. Instead, pick out a couple of your favorite mint varieties (I like chocolate mint and pineapple mint) and plant them in containers.

Finally, no Southern California vegetable garden is complete without a little cilantro. It is a crucial ingredient in many Mexican dishes, and adds great flavor to everything from salsa to rice.

Cilantro prefers mild temperatures and will bolt (go to seed) quickly when the weather get warm. I plant cilantro in succession in my backyard during the cool months and start a kitchen window container of cilantro during the warm months.

Luckily, most of the herbs we use regularly are quite easy to grow in California. Why spend a ridiculous amount of money to pick up a small pack of fresh herbs from the grocery store when you can simply snip off what you need from a plant in your yard or on your patio? Plus, fresh herbs just taste better.

Here are the best herbs to grow in Southern California, along with tips on how to grow them, when to plant them, and which varieties to plant.

Best Herbs to Grow in Southern California

Sage

When to plant sage in Southern California: Spring or fall are ideal, but you can really plant it anytime in SoCal.

Recommended varieties of sage for Southern California: I like the look and taste of tricolor sage. Leaves are silvery-green and white with purple leaves intermixed, and lavender flowers. Of course, regular culinary sage you will find at any nursery does the job, too.

Sage is easily the most common native herb growing throughout California. As a matter of fact, there are 118 varieties of sage that grow throughout the state. I think every Southern California garden should have at least one sage plant.

Sage is commonly used in savory poultry dishes, and is one of the most distinctive flavors in your Thanksgiving stuffing. It is also a common herb in many soups and stews.

Sage is a perennial plant, meaning that it does not need to be planted annually. As long as it receives a good amount of sun and some water, and is in well-drained soil, it should do well year after year. Sage plants vary in size, but most culinary sage plants are about 1.5 feet tall and wide.

If you have a patio garden, sage will do well as a container plant, provided you keep it in a pot that drains well and give it some sun.

Sage is not usually grown from seed. You can either propogate sage from cuttings or keep things easy and just purchase up a small plant for a few dollars. Sage is typically available for purchase at plant nurseries and home improvement stores year round.

If you are looking for another interesting variety to grow, try pineapple sage. This plant can get up to four feet in size, has lovely red flowers in the late summer/early fall, and a wonderful pineapple scent.

Pineapple Sage is a great addition to a butterfly garden. It is also edible and is mainly used as garnish or in salads and teas. The flowers are edible as well.

How to harvest sage: The best way to harvest sage is to simply snip what you need as you need it. You can also harvest and dry sage to preserve it for future use.

Rosemary

When to plant rosemary in Southern California: You can plant rosemary year round, but the best time is spring. If you live in an area that receives frost, wait until two weeks after the last frost.

Recommended varieties of rosemary for Southern California: Tuscan Blue is a nice upright variety of rosemary that grows very well in SoCal. It also has good culinary flavor.

Rosemary is another herb that grows extremely well in Southern California and is commonly spotted in yards across the region. If you walk your neighborhood, you will probably see several neighbors who have rosemary shrubs in their front yard.

It is a woody, evergreen shrub that is hardy and can get quite large, up to five feet in height in diameter (or bigger!), so regular trimming is recommended if you don’t want it to get that big.

It can also grow well in containers which will help keep its size in check. There are even trailing varieties of rosemary that are used for groundcover. Rosemary can become fairly drought tolerant once established, another reason to have this herb in your Southern California garden.

When rosemary blooms, it typically has cute little blue flowers, but there is a variety that produces pink flowers- Majorca Pink. Bees love rosemary, making it a nice addition to a pollinator garden. It does well in full sun or part shade.

Rosemary is used in a variety of soups, casseroles, chicken and meat dishes. It can be used fresh or dried. It also makes for a lovely garnish.

Rosemary is not grown from seed. You can either propogate rosemary from cuttings or purchase a rosemary plant from the nursery.

Propagating rosemary is easy. Place 6″ cuttings with the lower leaves stripped off into a couple inches of water. Change the water regularly. Once you have a good amount of root growth you can move your cutting into well-drained soil and it should do great from there.

Lavender

When to plant lavender in Southern California: Late fall or spring.

Recommended varieties of lavender for Southern California: French Lavender is a pretty variety with big showy flowers and silvery green foliage.

Lavender has become a mainstay of drought tolerant landscapes across Southern California. As more and more people replace their lawns with low water plants, lavender is quickly becoming one of the most common plants in Southern California gardens, thanks to its hardiness as well as its lovely foliage, flowers, and scent.

Lavender originated in the Mediterranean region of Europe, which has a similar climate to California, so it is no wonder that it does so well here. Lavender only needs to be water regularly when first planted or during a heat wave. Overally, it is very hardy.

There are several varieties of lavender that do well in our neck of the woods, including French Lavender, English Lavender, and Spanish Lavender.

Interestingly enough, what we call French Lavender in the USA, Lavandula dentatam, is what the French call English Lavender.

Honestly, as long as you buy your lavender plant locally, it should do well. Most people start lavender in their gardens by picking up a little plant at their local garden center and the good news is that most garden centers tend to carry varieties that are suitable for your climate zone.

In order to keep your lavender plant producing lots of healthy flowers you should deadhead (garden lingo for remove the dead flower) dried, dead flowers from the plant.

Check out this amazing lavender farm you can visit in Southern California just outside of Temecula.

Most people harvest lavender by snipping off several stems with flowers and then hang them upside-down to dry out. This herb is primarily used for its calming and lovely scent, and dried lavender is commonly placed in sachets or bouquets around the home.

Lavender is also edible, but not as widely used in recipes as most of the herbs on our list. English Lavender is the most widely used culinary version of lavender. Here is Martha Stewart’s compliation of lavender recipes.

Basil

When to plant basil in Southern California: Early spring. If you experience frost where you live, plant after the last frost.

Recommended varieties of basil for Southern California: Genovese or Sweet Basil is the best for pestos and tomato salads. Thai Basil is a great addition to Asian dishes.

If I had to choose a favorite herb to grow in Southern California, it would probably be basil. It is a mainstay in my garden and it just compliments all the tomatoes I grow every year so perfectly.

If you want to grow tomatoes in addition to your herbs, definitely check out my tomato planting tips as well as my tomato growing tips. You will be blessed with a bountiful harvest if you follow my secrets!

Basil is one of my favorite herbs to cook with, and homegrown pesto sauce is something that has to be tasted to be believed. One basil plant is enough to keep my family happy with tomato/burrata salads and pasta with pesto all season long.

Plus, if I harvest basil regularly, I can quickly make and freeze pesto to enjoy in the winter as well. My basil plant has to be cut back almost completely at least once a season when it gets too woody and the leaves grow sparse, but it always comes back with a vegeance.

Basil likes regular watering, and does especially well when watered via a drip system. Still, you can grow it in pots and water overhead, just be sure you keep the soil moist. Basil will wilt quickly if it is neglected.

It is also important to keep pinching off the basil flower buds as they appear, so the basil plant won’t bolt, go to seed, and get super leggy. You will end up pinching off flowers almost daily in the peak of summer but it only takes 30 seconds to keep your plant happy. I tend to plant my basil alongside peppers because they have similar needs.

I have had basil plants overwinter here in Orange County, but I think you are better off pulling the plant out of your garden in late fall and replanting again in the spring.

If you cook a lot of Asian food, then a Thai Basil plant is a nice addition to your garden. The leaves are smaller and it has a spicier flavor with hints of anise. Thai Basil tends to hold up better in cooked dishes.

Basil can also be dried and stored for culinary use, but fresh basil is so much more flavorful.

Basil can be grown from seed (typically indoors first and then transferred outside), but basil plants can be commonly found in garden centers, nurseries, and even grocery stores. Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds has some really interesting varities of basil than can add some pizzazz to your herb garden.

Oregano

When to plant oregano in Southern California: Spring

Recommended varieties of oregano for Southern California: Origanum Vulgare aka: Greek Oregano is the standard. Mexican Oregano is also worth planting if you cook lots of Mexican food, especially soups.

Oregano is an essential ingredient to many Italian dishes, and is commonly used in pizza and pasta sauces. Since it is a Mediterranean herb, it does very well in Southern California.

Oregano is quite drought tolerant and is an attractive addition to a garden that reflects Southern Claifornia’s dry climate. It does well in containers, hanging planters, and in the ground. It prefers sun and well-drained soil. Allow soil to dry in between waterings.

Oregano is a good herb to plant near members of the cabbage family because it helps repell those pesky cabbage moths naturally.

You can grow oregano from seed or purchase a plant from your local nursery. Oregano seeds are tiny and don’t need to be buried. they can be simply sprinkled on top of soil and watered. It is easier to start the seeds inside and the transfer your seedlings once established.

This herb is perrennial in the regions of Southern California that don’t receive frost. It may die back some in the winter, but it will return. If you do receive frost, you will likely have to treat oregano as an annual.

Oregano can be used fresh in your dishes or dried and saved for future use. It holds its flavor well. In addition to pasta sauce and pizza, oregano is commonly used in soups, casseroles, chicken and fish dishes, and even pesto.

Greek Oregano is the most commonly used oregano variety in the US. Marjoram is actually a variety of oregano. It tends to be similarly flavored but less spicy than Greek Oregano.

Italian Oregano is very similar in flavor to Greek Oregano but is less bushy. I like growing it in my hanging garden because it has delicate, long stems filled with leaves and tiny white flowers.

Mexican Oregano is actually a different genus and species than the related Greek and Italian strains. It is a popular herb to use in cooking Mexican dishes and loves the heat. It’s flavor is bolder and stronger than Greek Oregano.

Cilantro

When to plant cilantro in Southern California: During the cool seasons when there is no danger of frost.

Recommended varieties of cilantro for Southern California: Leafy varieties like Leisure or Slo Bolt. Coriandum Sativum is the most common species.

As someone who loves Mexican food and makes lots of salsa, I have a love/hate relationship with cilantro. I love the flavor and convenience of fresh cilantro but I hate how quickly it tends to bolt (go to seed) in my garden.

Cilantro is one of those herbs that you just have to keep planting in order to enjoy it for more than a month or two at a time. Since it does grows very easy from seed, this isn’t a hard thing to do, you just have to remember to do it!

Plant new seeds every two weeks so that as one cilantro plant starts to bolt, the next plant will be ready to harvest. You can’t really prevent a cilantro plant from bolting, and once the plant does start producing its white flowers, the leaves begin to lose flavor.

Cilantro does best in cool, but not cold weather. In Southern California that is generally late winter/early spring, as well as later in the fall. It does like sun and moist soil, but part shade will work if you are trying to grow cilantro in warmer weather. You can also grow it indoors in a sunny window during the warmer months to keep it from bolting so fast.

If you plant cilantro in the ground, it can definitely self-sow, aka: drop seeds into the ground which will produce new plants next year. You can purchase cilantro plants from nurseries, but it is much more economical to grow it from seed since they don’t last as long as other herb plants.

The best way to harvest cilantro is to clip what you need as you need it, and use this herb fresh. It is delicate and doesn’t really hold up well to drying.

Coriander, a popular spice used in curry and pickling, is actually the seed of the cilantro plant. You can harvest and dry our these seeds for culinary use.

Parsley

When to plant parsley in Southern California: early spring is ideal

Recommended varieties of parsley for Southern California: Flat leaf Italian Parsley

I have found parsley is a herb that grows very well in Southern California. As a matter of fact, I have been surprised by just how big a parsley plant can get (up to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide) when it is happy in a raised bed garden. One plant has always suited my family’s needs, but if you use parsley more frequently feel free to plant more.

I tend to only grow Flat Leaf Italian Parsley because it has a superior flavor and more uses than Curly Parsley. Curly Parsley is most commonly used as a garnish, but it is also good to chew on to freshen your breath after a meal.

You can grow Flat Leaf Italian Parsley year-round in portions of Southern California that don’t receive frost, but I do like to replace my plants once a year.

Grow parsley from seed or buy a little plant at the nursery. Seeds should be sprinkled on garden soil and covered with just a quarter inch of soil. Soil should be kept moist while the plant is germinating. I also recommending keeping your parsley plant mulched to keep the moisture content in the soil even.

Parsley will also grow well in containers as long as it is watered regularly and its roots have room to grow (ideally 8-10′).

Harvest parsley as needed, snipping off the plant at least 2″ above the base. Cut back the plant when it starts to get leggy or flowery, and it will regrow new leaves.

Dried parlsey is okay, but not nearly as good as fresh. You can freeze also parsley in ice cube trays for long term storage. Parsley is a nice pesto option as well.

Thyme

When to plant thyme in Southern California: fall or spring

Recommended varieties of thyme for Southern California: English Thyme aka: Common or Culinary Thyme is the standard. You can also try Lemon Thyme for citrusy twist on your thyme’s flavor.

Thyme is yet another herb that loves Southern California’s climate. It is evergreen and does well when it receives full sun and is planted in soil that drains well. It is also very successful as a container plant. Don’t over water it, but keep in mind that containers do dry out quicker.

Thyme does well in full sun but can also do just fine in part shade in the hotter portions of Southern California.

There are varieties of thyme that are low growing and used for ground cover. They are very lovely to look at and are edible, but they aren’t ideal for cooking because they don’t have as good of a flavor.

The taller varieties are better for adding to your recipes. Taller varieties are still not super tall, just 12-18 inches high. Thyme does benefit from mulching and seems to like rock mulch best but will be fine with traditional bark mulch as well.

Thyme can be grown from seed, cuttings, or purchased as a little plant from your local nursery. Thyme is easy enough to grow from seed but can take up to four weeks to germinate, so I tend to just go the easy route and buy a little plant.

Thyme is used in a wide variety of dishes including soups, chicken, potatoes, and casseroles, so having a plant on hand to quickly snip a sprig as needed is convenient and cost effective. Fresh herbs from the grocery store tend to be expensive.

Thyme is best used fresh, but it does hold up well to preservation. It can be preserved in olive oil, frozen in ice cube trays, or dried.

Bay Leaves

When to plant bay leaves in Southern California: fall or spring

Recommended varieties of bay leaves for Southern California: Just go for the traditional Bay Laurel, aka: L. nobilis. 

Ten years ago when I took a trip to Italy, I saw hedge after hedge with very familiar looking leaves. Some were potted, others were grown as privacy hedges. I asked my guide and he did, in fact, confirm that I was looking at Bay Laurels. These hedges produce bay leaves, a staple in countless soups and stews.

As soon as I got home I immediately decided I needed a potted Bay Laurel on my patio. After all, if it was growing with ease in Rome, it was going to do well in Southern California’s Mediterranean climate. So I purchased a 10 gallon pot, planted my little Bay Laurel, and that is where is has been ever since.

My Bay Laurel has survived neglect by house sitters on more than one occassion. It likes to be watered once or twice a week, but it will hang tough for much longer. Whenever I need a couple leafs for soup, I just pluck them off, give them a quick rinse and add them to the pot.

You can plant Bay Laurels in the ground but they will get very tall (up to 50 feet in the wild) eventually. They do grow slow (only a few inches per year) and their size can be managed with trimming. They can also be shaped into topiaries is you are so inclined, or used as privacy hedges.

Bay Laurels are difficult to grow from seed but you can grow them from cuttings or just simply pick up a plant from the nursery.

Love patio trees? Check out our picks for the best container fruit trees for your patio.

Chives

When to plant chives in Southern California: early spring

Recommended varieties of chives for Southern California: Common Chives or Garlic Chives. Personally I like to have both options growing.

I simply love the purple pom pom flowers of a chive plant. They are so delicate and beautiful, and a nice addition to salads. Flowers can also come in pink or white in common chives, and are white in garlic chives.

Use chive leaves in any dish that you would like to add mild onion flavor. I especially enjoy them diced up in dips, added to a compound butter, or atop a baked potato.

Chive plants love full sun and plenty of water. They are great companions to tomato plants because their scent helps ward off pests. They can also do well in containers as long as you water them regularly. They are small and only reach between 10-20 inches in height.

Chives prefer cooler weather and the heat of the summer may kill them off, but it you leave the bulbs in the ground they should reappear in the fall. If you keep your chive plants for a couple years, the bulbs will eventually need to be dug and up and divided in order to keep them producing well.

You can either purchase little chive plants from the nursery or grow them from seed. Seeds should be planted about two inches apart and lightly covered in just a quart inch of soil. It can take a couple weeks for the seeds to germinate.

Chives are best used fresh, but can be frozen for future use. Drying chives causes them to lose their flavor and is not recommended.

Tarragon

When to plant tarragon in Southern California: spring

Recommended varieties of tarragon for Southern California: French Tarragon is the variety commonly used in cooking.

Tarragon is not the most popular herb around, and it isn’t the most ornamental, but it is actually a great addition to any kitchen. Having fresh tarragon around is a treat, especially to anyone who enjoys cooking class French dishes.

It is most often used in fish and chicken dishes. as well as a variety of sauces and salad dressings. Tarragon has an anise flavor, with hints of dill and floral undercurrents. It is a distinct and aromatic herb.

Fremch Tarragon does not grow from seed, so it is best to just pick up a little plant from your local nursery. It is easy to grow- just plant it in full sun to part shade and make sure the soil drains well. Tarragon is a great addition to a raised bed or can be grown in a small container.

Tarragon leaves can be harvested at any time, but have the best flavor before the plant puts all its energy into flowering.

You can dry tarragon and it will hold on to its flavor well, similar to oregano. The best way to dry tarragon is to bundle the leaves and hang them upside down in a dark space for several days.

Fennel

When to plant fennel in Southern California: early soring or early fall.

Recommended varieties of fennel for Southern California: Grosfruchtiger as an herb fennel. Florence Fennel if you are more interested in harvesting the bulb.

Fennel is a beautiful herb. It has delicate, fern-like leaves and a wonderful, bright green color. It is closely related to carrots, and it you can certainly see the relation between carrot tops and fennel fronds.

Fennel actually grows wild in Southern California, especially in areas close to the coast, and is seen as an invasive species since it is native to Europe. Wild fennel is basically the same as the type you grow for culinary purposes, except it doesn’t usually have a big bulb. Still, the leaves and seeds are edible.

You can plant fennel in the ground, in raised beds, or in a container. It will be happy as long as it gets six hours of sun and has well-drained soil. It is quite drought tolerant, but does need some water occasionally once established.

There are many parts of the fennel plant that have culinary uses. The leaves, seeds, and bulbs are all used in dishes and have a sweet anise flavor. You can even use the flowers in salads. Techincally speaking, the leaves, seeds, and flower are considered an herb and the bulb is a vegetable.

Fennel is best grown from seed. Seeds should be planted about a half inch deep and kept moist. They will germinate in 1-2 weeks. You can also purchase a small fennel plant from your local nursery and transplant. Just take care not to disturb the roots too much.

Fennel grows as a perrenial plant in California, but should be replaced every couple years because they start to lose their pizzazz a bit.

The fennel stems, bulbs, and flowers are best eaten fresh but the seeds can be dried and stored for future use. Seeds can be harvested in late summer or early fall when they start to turn brown.

Clip the flower heads and place them on a tray in a dark place for a couple weeks to dry. Then shake out the seeds and store them in an airtight container.

Mint

When to plant mint in Southern California: Year round but ideally spring or fall.

Recommended varieties of mint for Southern California: Spearmint and Peppermint are classics, but I also can’t resist Chocolate Mint or Pineapple Mint.

Having fresh mint around to add to tea or a cocktail is truly a delight. And there are so many fun varieties to choose from with distinct flavors and scents.

Mint is one of those herbs that grows almost too well, and can easily take over your garden if you don’t contain it. As a matter of fact, once you plant mint somewhere, good luck every getting rid of it! This plant will put down runners underneath the soil and spread anywhere and everywhere it can.

For this reason, I implore you to grow mint in a container. You can submerge the container into the your garden soil to make it look like the mint is planted in the ground, but it is so important that you keep those roots contained. The top of the container should be at ground level so the roots can’t get out.

I like to just keep a couple different mints in pots around my garden. Mint does prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, so place your pot of mint in a spot that will suit its needs. It should be watered regularly as mints like moist soil.

Mint is perennial and will even tolerate frost, so as long as you don’t let it dry out, your mint plant should thrive for a long time.

Mint is typically purchased as a plug tray or small plant. A well-stocked nursery has several distinct smelling varieties like Chocolate Mint, Pineapple Mint, or Apple Mint, as well as classics like Peppermint and Spearmint. It can also be grown from seed.

Harvest mint as needed, by pinching off a few leaves at a time. You can also preserve mint by freezing the leaves either whole or chopped.

Lemongrass

When to plant lemongrass in Southern California: In spring after the danger of frost has passed.

Recommended varieties of lemongrass for Southern California: The standard is Cymbopogon citratus for culinary uses.

Lemongrass is an essential herb in Asian cooking. It has a bright and fresh citrusy flavor and refreshing scent.

Luckily, lemongrass grows well in Southern California, especially in places that get lots of heat. It is native to areas of Sri Lanka and India that are warm and wet, so you will need to keep it well watered and make sure the roots don’t dry out.

Lemongrass is a nice ornamental grass and grows in a clump that is 2-4 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide. It is a perennial in portions of Southern California that don’t receive frost. Plant lemongrass is the hottest, sunniest spot in your garden.

In addition to being a great herb for culinary use, it is also a good mosquito repellant. If you overwinter your lemongrass, trim it back to six inches in height. It will grow new shoots in the spring.

Lemongrass is easy to grow from seed but is more commonly purchased as a small plant from a nursery. Like many other ornamental grasses, you can dig up the clump and divide and replant in to order to increase your lemongrass supply.

Lemongrass is typically grown in the ground but will grow in pots as long as they are at least five gallons in size and well watered.

Lemongrass leaves can be bundled and steeped in teas but are too fibrous to be edible. The edible portion of lemongrass is at the bottom of the stalk.

The outer layer needs to be peeled to reveal the white stalk which can be sliced and diced to eat. Just be careful because the leaves of lemongrass can be very sharp!

The portion of the lemongrass base that is edible can be frozen for later use. The grass should be used fresh.

Arugula

When to plant arugula in Southern California: Pretty much year round as long as there is no frost. It does best in spring and fall.

Recommended varieties of arugula for Southern California: Red Dragon is a beautiful addition to a salad with its red streaks along the stem. Standard Arugla (Rocket) is always a good choice as well.

Arugula is probably my favorite herbal addition to a salad. It has this peppery, mustardy bite that I just can’t get enough of. Arugula is incredibly easy to grow at home and if you grow it in two week successions you will have arugula to harvest all season long.

Arugula originated in the Mediterranean portion of Europe so it is no surprise it does well in Southern California. Arugula ideally grows in full sun most of the year, but can benefit from part shade in the warmer season so it won’t bolt as quickly.

Fun fact: Arugula is known as “rocket” in Europe.

The seeds are easy to germinate– sprinkle several in a small area and cover with just a quarter inch of soil. In just a week sprouts will begin to appear. Plant your seeds in a raised bed or container. You can grow it directly in the ground as well, provided you have decent soil.

Harvest your arugula when stems are about 2-3 inches tall. This will take about 4-6 weeks from seed planting. If you let them grow too big they will get tougher and more bitter.

Arugula is a great salad herb but it is also a welcome addition to pizzas, sandwiches, in egg dishes, and as a pesto.

The good news is that there are literally dozens of tomato varieties that will grow well in the heat of a Southern California summer, as long as you follow my tried and true tomato growing tips. Still, some are more prolific than others and some varieties of tomatoes are bred to be better suited for Southern California’s climate.

Here are my picks for the best tomatoes to grow in Southern California, from bite-sized snackers to gorgeous heirloom varieties that will be stunners in your summer salads.

Don’t plant your garden without first reading my tomato planting tips. Foillow them and you will be well on your way to a bountiful harvest.

Best Tomatoes to Grow in Southern California

Paul Robeson Tomato

The Paul Robeson tomato just might be my all-time favorite slicing tomato for Southern California. This beefsteak has beautiful color and a great heirloom look, but this tomato is about so much more than good looks.

The fruit is easy to grow, maturing at just 65-70 days, and is a high producer. It also happens to be one of the best tasting tomatoes, if not THE best tasting tomato around.

The tomato was named after Paul Robeson who was an actor, opera singer, athlete and civil rights activist.

Fruit tend to be 3-4 inches in size and ideal temps for this guy are below 95, so while it will still do well in hot inland areas, it will do even better in more temperate patches of SoCal. These are long vining tomatoes that should be staked or trellised.

My local nursery has this heirloom in their tomato seedling selection every year, and I am noticing the garden sections at well-stocked home improvement stores are starting to sell these as well. You can also purchase seed for this tomato.

Brandywine Tomato

Another great beefsteak tomato that is ideal for slicing is the Brandywine. This tomato plant has large-leaved foliage and produces large fruit in a variety of colors. The most common varietals are pink and red.

It is a popular tomato plant, and you will notice that it does look different than most of the other tomato plants in your garden. It really does have an old-fashioned vibe and bigger leaves.

This is a more late-ripening tomato variety. Harvesting typically begins around the 90 day mark. It is indeterminate and does well in high temperatures providing you give it plenty of water and tomato food.

Once ripe, these tomatoes can be nearly a pound in weight! Since they are slow to ripen, they do have more of a chance to be bothered by pests. I plant marigolds and onions with my tomato plants to help discourage pests. Watering from below will help keep the plant healthy as well.

Brandywine Tomato plants are commonly found at most plant nurseries and home improvement store garden centers in Southern California.

Momotaro Tomato

Momotaro Tomatoes are the most popular variety in Japan. This hybrid has also become quite popular at farmer’s markets, thanks to its lovely pink flesh, sweet flavor, and long shelf life. This is a classic looking tomato.

It is named for the legend of Momotaro, aka: Peach Boy. He is a baby boy found living inside a giant peach by farmers who yearned for a child of their own. He grew to be a celebrated figure who incouraged peace. There is a Momotaro Festival in Japan every year.

I have to wonder if Roald Dahl’s classic children’s book, James and The Giant Peach, was inspired by this legend…

This is an early producing tomato, which will reach maturity in just 60 days. The fruit are about 1/2 a pund each. The plant is indeterminate and will keep producing all season long. Each cluster on flowers on the plant tend to produce 6-7 fruits.

This is not a tomato that tolerates extreme heat. If your temps hover over 95 degrees for an extended time, it can cause the flowers to drop. If you do live in an are that reaches those temps in the peak of summer, just plant early and use it as an early season variety.

Rumor has it that this Dolly Parton’s favorite tomato.

I have seen this variety of tomato at my local nursery (Green Thumb) year after year. The seeds can also be readily found online.

Green Zebra Tomato

I think every heirloom tomato garden needs a green tomato for a little bit of pizazz, and the Green Zebra Tomato offers just that. It is a green, stripy tomato with shades of yellow intermixed when ripe.

The tomatoes are about two inches around. It matures in about 75 days. It has great flavor, sweet with a bit of tang. I have great success growing this tomato year after year. I have noticed that the plants don’t get as big as some of my other tomatoes, usually in the 4-5 foot range.

This particular tomato became popular when Alice Waters started using it in her heirloom tomato dishes at Chez Pannise. It has become the most widely available green heirloom tomato around. It has great flavor and is easy to grow.

Since this is a green tomato, you have to go by feel to know if it is ripe. If it is soft, it is ripe.

I have seen this variety at Home Depot, Green Thumb, Rogers Gardens, and just about any garden center with a decent selection of tomato seedlings.

Cherokee Purple Tomato

The Cherokee Purple Tomato is another popular heirloom variety. It is a slicing tomato, about 8-12oz in weight when fully ripe. It is a beautiful, dusky purple and pink color with tinges of red. Some have greenish areas at the top, even with ripe.

This tomato is gorgeous, sweet and smoky, and easy to grow. It is said to have originated with the Cherokee tribe, and has been grown for well over 100 years.

This tomato is a particularly disease-resistant heirloom, making it easy to grow. It matures at about 80-90 days and plants can produce 20-25 tomatoes per season. It is an indeterminate tomato which means it will continue to produce throughout the growing season.

Gold Medal Tomato

We all love classic slicing tomatoes but sometimes we want one that really stands out in terms of color without sacrificing flavor. The Gold Medal Tomato (aka Ruby Gold) is that tomato.

It has awesome tropical coloring with yellow and pinkish red streaks. It also has great flavor, sweeet with even a bit of tropicality in its taste.

This beefsteak variety has been around for 100 years and you definitely want it growing in your garden. I have heard that people have success growing these in smart pots as well as raised beds.

The Gold Medal is also very prolific, producing dozens of tomatoes off of one plant! Ripe fruit will keep for a couple weeks, if you manage to hold out that long. Fruit are large- 16 to 18oz- and the plant starts maturing around 75-85 days.

If you can’t find Gold Medal Tomato seedlings at your local nursey, this local website carries these seedlings as well as dozens of other amazing heirloom varieties.

Best Small Tomatoes to Grow in Southern California

Sweet 100 Cherry Tomato

If you want an easy to grow tomato that does well in pots or in a garden bed, the Sweet 100 Cherry Tomato is a great option. These cherry tomato plants are very prolific and these little tomatoes are great additions to salads. They are also just as tasty right off the vine.

This tomato takes only 65 days to mature and is indeterminate, which means you will be popping cherry tomatoes into your mouth all summer long.

There is another hybrid of this plant, the Super Sweet 100, which is also great. Both varieties are easy to find throughout Southern California at home improvement stores or traditional nurseries.

Since Sweet 100s grow so well in pots, they are great options for people that only have room for patio plants. This is really one of the most fool-proof tomatoes to grow. Just be sure to stake or cage the tomato plant because it can grow pretty tall (over 4 feet) if it is well fed and watered.

Grow big in small spaces! These are the best container fruit trees for your patio.

Sungold Cherry Tomato

I think Sungold is probably my favorite cherry tomato in terms of flavor. It really has the sweet flavor of a bigger tomato, packed into an orange drop of sunshine.

These beauties only need 60 days to reach maturity and are perfect for salads, pasta dishes, or snacking. When my daughter was a toddler I would often catching her over by my Sungold Tomato plant just gorging herself with little orange treats right off the vine.

This is an indeterminate tomato and will often be the first and last tomato producing in your garden; it just doesn’t quit!

You can grow these tomatoes in the ground, in raised beds, and pots. They are disease resistant and generally happy campers as long as they get plenty of sunshine, tomato food, and water.

Grow a bounty of tomatoes with our tomato growing tips. We go over everything you need to know to have your best tomato harvest yet!

Yellow Pear Tomato

I love a pretty summer salad, and this tomato helps bring a color and vibrancy that definitely provides some cheer to your dishes. These tiny, pear-shaped tomatoes are abundant once the plant reaches maturity at 78 days.

Yellow Pear is an indeterminate variety and will keep producing into the fall as long as there is no frost. They are quite disease resistant, so just watch out for bugs like aphids and tomato worms and you should have a happy plant.

These 1-2″ tomatoes are an heirloom variety, and their vines can reach up to eight feet long, so be sure to stake these suckers! This variety is also a common one used in making tomato preserves.

Best Tomatoes to Grow in Southern California for Canning and Sauces

Roma Tomatoes

Roma Tomatoes are probably the most common tomato you will see in grocery stores in California. But, as someone who used to live in the heart of Roma Tomato country and used to see trucks of them rolling down the highway all summer, I can assure you that they pick those grocery store tomatoes when they are still green.

Tomatoes are picked for grocery stores when they are still hard and green to help with transportation and extend shelf live but it comes with a big sacrifice- flavor.

A homegrown Roma Tomato is 100 times better than anything you will get at the store. They have very few seeds and are perfect for sauces and canning.

Another reason you might want to make sauce to freeze or can is that these tomatoes are a determinate variety. This means that the plant produces the bulk of their fruit all at once.

I love picking a large bunch of Romas and then making big batches of sauce to freeze for the winter. Roast your Romas to make the sauce even sweeter and more flavorful.

Fruit are usually 5-8 oz and oblong. It reaches maturity in 70 days. I grow my Roma Tomatoes in raised beds but many people have had success in large containers as well.

Roma Tomato seedlings are easy to find just about everywhere that sells tomato plants.

San Marzano Tomato

If you head to the grocery store, you will notice that the more expensive canned tomatoes (like my favorite, Muir Glen) that come from Italy are all made with San Marzano Tomatoes. This is because, in my opinion, San Marzano Tomatoes make the best sauce.

These tomatoes are a bit larger than Roma Tomatoes (3 1/2 inches long and 6 ounces in weight) and the flesh is very thick and has very few seeds, making it perfect for rich sauces.

They are indeterminate so they don’t show up all at once like Romas. This can be a plus or a minus depending on your canning/sauce strategy.

They mature at 85 days, which means they show up later in the season than Romas. I suggest you plant both types so you can have a bountiful harvest early and late in the season.

Don’t worry, San Marzanos aren’t just for sauces and canning. They are also great fresh in salads and on sandwiches.